Arriving at Bangkok Airport the immigration and customs process works very smoothly it is a beautiful airport with amazing shopping and eating. There is no need to worry about the tales of taxi scams as there is a taxi desk well signed down a level from the arrivals. They ask where you are going and you are allocated a metered cab.
If you are in the new part the Skytrain is great for getting around, it is a bit slow and stops and starts a bit but it gets you above the traffic, you can then get to the old part near the Grand Palace by River Boat. The Skytrain stop is Saphan Taksin and the River Boat pier is Tha Sathon or Central, an easy change.
There are different types of River Boats, the ordinary ferry costs 13 Baht and there is a more Tourist one, stopping less, with some commentary costing 25 Baht, these are less frequent. The boats only run till 7.30 in the evening so after that if you want to get to the old part or to Banglamphu and Khao San the Backpackers area, you will need to use a taxi.Using these boats you have to be very quick to get on and off, they don’t hang around.
If you use taxis it helps to have the address you want in Thai, make sure they put their meter on and when it all goes smoothly which it does 90% of the time it costs between £1 and £2 to cross the city. If you have a problem get out and find another one, there are loads.
Tut-tuts, well people say not to use them but they are part of the Bangkok experience get one and specify where you want to go and the price. For example we went from Wat Po to the Grand Palace entrance for 50 Baht, probably far more than they would expect but worth every Baht in the heat.
People will stop you near any major attraction and tell you” it’s shut”, ignore them it’s not, heaven knows what they think they will gain by this. Also ignore people telling you to use other boats apart from the River Ferries, these are great to use.
We chose to stay near the Grand Palace and were not disappointed, it was fine for getting to all areas and had a great local feel to it with places to eat and drink nearby.
Aurum The River Place, Tha Maharat is a lovely boutique hotel on the riverside five minutes from the River Boat Stop N8. The rooms are lovely we paid a bit more for a river view and the staff were wonderful. The breakfasts served in the garden are wonderful, the attention to detail and the staff was wonderful, a real gem.
Banglamphu and Khao San, this area can be reached by River Boat Ferry, Stop N12. Khao San is a ten minute walk via Soi Rambutan full of bars, restaurants, and places to have amazing foot massages. Khao San itself is a night market, full of bars and places to eat, as is the next street, Soi Rambutan has a more chilled feel.
Hemlock, 56 Thra Pha Athit is a lovely restaurant with really unusual Thai dishes, very cheap and very chilled.
Villa Cha Cha (or something like that) is a barbeque restaurant in Khao San, great fish and seafood and very cheap.
Sawardee in Soi Rambutan is a back packing Hotel with a bar and restaurant very relaxed for a drink as is Orchid Village in Soi Chana Songkram, there is a good small local bar just down the street on the other side from Orchid Village.
Chote Chitr 146 Th Phreang Phuton, listed as Bamglamphu but a short walk from the Grand Palace so handy for lunch before you tackle Wat Pho. This seems to be in loads of articles and well worth it, small but friendly service with great Thai food, and incredibly reasonable prices.
Ko |Ratanakosin is the area near the Grand Palace and Wat Po, there are a couple of un-named places to eat on Ferry Pier N8, one open in the day, one called Po only when the ferry stops.
The Deck, at the Arun Residence Soi Pratu Nok Yung, just off Th Maharat is a lovely place for a meal with fabulous views of Wat Arun, they do both Thai and European food very reasonably priced with very friendly, is slightly chaotic, service. It is advisable to book, up on the 4th Floor they have a bar called Amoroso which is a fabulous place to sit and have a drink, it doesn’t open until 6pm.
Rub Aroon, 310-312 Th Maharat is only open during the day, the Thai food is great and the service good, sit on the payment terrace and watch the street sellers cooking food and look over to Wat Po.
New Part – Siam Square - The Skytrain stop National Stadium is where you get off to go to Jim Thompson’s House (see below) don’t miss out eating in the restaurant there, the food was excellent the surroundings and the service lovely.
If you visit the “Entertainment” area of Patpong Skytrain stop Sala Daeng, there is a very good market as well as the rather sleazy bars there are loads of places where you can sit and have a beer. Food choices did not seem great but on the main drag there is always a street vendor doing some amazing claypot prawns for next to nothing.
Take the Skytrain to Saphan Taksin and a 5 minute walk takes you to State Tower, Thanon Silom where 275 metres up are Skybar (standing) or Distil (reclining), Distil probably has the best views and great cocktails.
The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew, can be reached from Ferry Stop N9,
Wat Po can be reached from Ferry Stop N8, and Wat Arun can be reached from the same stop by using the cross river ferry from the pier next to the River Ferry.
Chinatown, can be reached from Ferry Stop N5, head to the Soi Charoen Krung 16 (Trok Itsaranuphap) the food market is like stepping back in time try Dim Sum from stalls as you walk then find some a street food stall and pull up a plastic chair.
Jim Thompson’s House, Soi Kasemsan 2 , Th Rama should not be missed, it is a group of 6 Thai teak houses beautifully furnished, with a lovely shop specialising in silk, and a great restaurant. If you need to cool down after that do some Mall shopping at Siam Square.
Nittaya Curry Shop, 136-140 Th Chakhraphong just by Khao San is reputed to be the best place to buy Thai Curry sauces, vacuum packed to bring home.
